Knitted lace: Atelier Perluette | Photo: Wiebke Schroeder
The Craft and Material Security team is developing a series of knitwear prototypes using long line and short tow fibres sourced from regional farmers and blended with other natural materials. Prototypes will be created by local artists and designers in collaboration with regional manufacturers. These textiles will demonstrate the potential for integrating locally produced flax fibre into limited edition, bespoke textiles and garments.
Knitwear development begins by creating a linen yarn suitable for industrial knitting applications. Ideal fibre blends must be determined to achieve prototype goals, as well as yarn count, twist direction, and ply. Working in collaboration with the Zeis Textile Extension at North Carolina State University, several yarns have been sampled and developed for use in a variety of knitting machines, including circular and flatbed.
Two types of knitted prototypes are currently being explored: flatbed shirting samples, and circular knitted socks. Each prototype will be developed using an iterative process to assess technical aspects and yarn capabilities. Yarn elasticity is a pertinent concern for both types of knitting. Garment prototypes on flatbed machines will be knit in panels, while circular knit socks will be knit as a whole.
Flatbed knit garment panels will be assembled via seaming, and small finishing details will be completed on the sock prototypes. Other finishing processes such as steaming and blocking will finalize garment shape and drape according to yarn blend criteria and knit application. Piece dyeing would be an additional step at this stage to prepare garments for market.
Stanfield’s, a longstanding and classic Nova Scotian manufacturer, is our industry partner for knitwear development. Founded in 1856, Stanfield’s has operated in Nova Scotia for over 170 years, providing Atlantic Canadians with innovative and reliable apparel. Although their knitting operations have halted, Stanfield’s continues to provide guidance to the project through industry connections and expertise, offering valuable insights on both knit shirting fabrics and hosiery. Alongside consulting, collaboration with Stanfield’s offers a historical understanding of the regional garment industry.
